VarmintBites has a good post today informing readers that Ben and Karen Barker’s Magnolia Grill has been named by the James Beard Foundation as one of 20 finalists for the nation’s Best Restaurant award.

I’m not surprised. The unassuming grill continues do wow decades into its existence. One gains a true appreciation for the restaurant when trying to cook Barker’s recipes. Many included in the Not Afraid of Flavor book literally require days in advance of preparation.

What makes Barker special is his ability to blend deep layers of flavor without overpowering a dish. All too often popular local chefs think that the way to impress is to serve the culinary equivalent of german speed metal music. (one chef who was once in Cary, then in Raleigh, and now has left the country comes chiefly to mind). Not so with Barker. Magnolia Grill is one of the few restaurants where each bite should be savored instead of serving as a backdrop for mundane conversation.

Chapel Hill chefs Bill Smith, Andrea Reusing, and Chip Smith, along with Durham’s Scott Howell were nominated for Best Chef of the Southeast award.

Best of luck to all!